Your rims influence comfort, but they do not "dictate" it. The single biggest comfort lever is your tires — width and pressure — followed by the frame and contact points. The rim's real contribution is indirect: a wider internal rim lets you run a wider tubeless tire at lower pressure, which is where most of the smoothing actually comes from.

Carbon does not automatically ride softer than aluminum. A deep, very stiff carbon rim can feel harsher than a shallow alloy one. What matters is rim *design* — width, depth, layup, and spokes — not the material name on the decal.

Quick Verdict — 28c or 32c?

Truing a carbon wheel at home is safe and effective for minor lateral and radial deviations (under 2 mm). You need a truing stand, spoke key or nipple wrench compatible with your wheel, and ideally a spoke tension meter. Work in quarter-turn increments, check tension frequently, and stop if you encounter a dented or cracked rim — that requires professional assessment.

For most road cyclists, a 40–50 mm rim depth with a modern toroidal or U-shaped profile offers the best balance of aerodynamic savings and crosswind stability. You gain 80–90% of the aero benefit of deeper rims with manageable handling in winds up to 30 kph. Only ultra-light riders (under 60 kg) or those riding in consistently gusty conditions above 40 kph should consider dropping below 40 mm.